Monday, January 15, 2007

Galapagos!

I am writing to you all from the island of Santa Cruz. Currently it is raining outside, sort of drizzling but still oppressively hot. After being on a boat for the last few days, I haven´t yet acquired my sea legs but on land I feel like I´m still rocking up and down on a boat. A bit strange, but interesting. On board, we all keep falling into each other, the walls, the railings, yeah. The crew just laughs at us. The islands are incredible. I didn´t quite believe it when people said you could walk right up the animals but it is true. I have taken pictures of animals not more than two feet away. It is amazing here. There is so much to see. The animals are beautiful and they are everywhere! Many a time I have had to watch my step so as to not squash an iguana, a booby, or a tortoise. We have hiked at least twice every day and snorkelled at least once. I am not the strongest swimmer by an stretch but I have had an incredible experience viewing the sea life. Moorish idols, angelish, parrotfish, sea urchins, and more! We´ve snorkelled by beaches, protuding rocks, and in a caldera. I am amazed every day by what I see. Everything here is so beautiful and so fragile. If I so wished, I could decimate booby nests. They´ve even built their nests on tourist trails! I have seen all three types of boobies, the blue footed, the red footed and the Nasca (which were formerly called the masked booby but are officially a new species, cool!) Yes, evolution is most certainly still in effect. The varieties of finches, Scalesia plants, tortoises, and boobies are examples of how selection has worked on different organisms. Oh adaptive radiation and speciation! Sea lions abound, they play with iguanas, I even saw one tug on an iguana´s tail, dragging it under water for a time before letting it escape. Most of the plants we´ve seen are spiky or bare. The landscape is quite rugged and barren in appearance but it supports a huge abundance of life. It has been awesome to see all these things for myself that I have read about it textbooks and National Geographic Magazine. The Charles Darwin Research Station had a nice area explaining the work they do to breed tortoises in captivity and release the offspring back into the wild to repopulate islands where their numbers have been depeleted. I saw the Sirenan, a ship that a foreign conservation organization gave to the station to use fo a number of years, since the station has such a shortage of funds. I supported the station in a small way with the purchase of a tank top with their emblem. Hopefully their good work can continue in the future. Oh the future. And life in general. The other night, just after celebrating our crossing of the equator (I took a sweet picture of our GPS reading "O") I stood on the back deck of the boat and just watched the stars, thinking about how great life truly is. Life indeed is beautiful. Life is beautiful and fragile and we should treasure every moment, even the everyday moments that we take for granted. There are many things that I have missed while here, and there are many experiences that have been amazing and I am glad to have had the opportunity to partake in. And of course experiences here that I would rather not repeat. And believe it or not, I can see the constellation Orion from this far south. So if you´re missing me, just look at the stars, find Orion, and know that I can see the very same stars. This trip has been absolutely incredible and I can´t wait to return home and share my experiences with you all. Tomorrow, we go to Fernandina and Isabela, where we stay in a hotel on shore. After that, we leave the Galapagos and return to the mainland. We´ll be going to Mindo (a cloud forest region) and Otavalo, a very famous market town. My trip is more than halfway over! That means that I will be back before any of us knows it, ready to adjust back to life in good old MN and share more of my stories with you!

7 comments:

M said...

Dear Kay, This all sounds incredible, spendid, astounding, marvelous, astonishing, captivating and of course totally AWESOME!
We received about 1" of snow while Northfield was blanketed by maybe 5-6" overnight.
Hope the seas aren't too rough.
Any shark fins in sight, in storage or still attached to a live marine animal?
Love, your synonym pal, M

M said...

Dear Kay,
I talked to Grandpa tonight about your Galapagos experience. He just read a Smithsonian article about the islands and is saving it for me. I am relaying your blog entries to them and he was pleased to hear about your treasuring life philosophical attitude. Sometimes it takes getting away from your usual "luxurious" life to appreciate it. I'm working alot at Kimball High School this week and 2 days next week. Love, Mom
Love, Mom

M said...

Dear Kathleen,
This morning, in your honor, I put on the CD I got from GRRL yesterday, Andean legacy. We enjoyed hearing the pan-Andean music on it which includes 3 groups from Ecuador. I'll still have it when you return. Maybe it will be similar to what you'll be hearing this evening (Jan. 19). What were your farm activities like?
Welcome back to Quito. We look at the weather for Quito everyday and see that it is 66 and some showers for today, quite a change from the Gal. Islds!
Today we're seeing a large tulip display (thousands) at the Mall of America. Love, M

M said...

This is from Kathleen who will post this on her blog but this will have to be in the form of a comment temporarily.

So, the last time I wrote to you, I was in Puerto Ayora, Galapagos. After that, we had a few more days of intense sun and heat, including our final days on our boat, more of a yacht really, pretty sweet I must say. I am also proud that I didn´t really get seasick! In addition to hiking into two different lava tubes on two different islands (lava tubes are amazing, and I am pretty much a dork and thought of the Republic while inside, seeing our flashlights lending scant light to the rocky sides). We landed on Isabela where we stayed in a hotel on the beach. Well actually, the entire village of Puerto Villamil is built on a beach. Sand is absolutely everywhere and gets into everything! It was a decent enough place. The cool thing about Isabela, other than the fact that it is the largest of the Galapagos islands, was that we got to hike up a volcano, Sierra Negra, and hike along the rim of the largest active caldera in the world. It was amazing! At first, we were clambering along in the cool morning mist, without a view of anything more than thirty feet ahead. Slowly though, the sun and wind blew away the fog and we could see down to the caldera floor, some hundred feet below. We worked our way around part of the caldera to see the epicenter, where a lava flow originated in October 2006. Believe it or not, cacti were growing right next to the new flow. Tough little buggers! Adaptations here are incredible. The only part of our brisk hike I did not enjoy was our less than stellar guide, but life goes on right? After that, we had a huge travel day. Speedboat right from Isabela to Santa Cruz (think of a boat that belongs on Lake Minnetonka, a decent size fishing boat, and then put it in the rough ocean). A bus, a ferry, a bus, two planes, and a bus and we were in Cotacachi in the Andes! We stayed with native Quechua families that night (I´m running out of time, more detail to come). They are incredible people and it was great to see how the indigenous people of the area live. The next morning, we worked on a community Quechua farm harvesting potatoes. It was cool to help them out and see their methods, which aren´t too different from ours. After that, we went to a luxurious hacienda (where I got to take a nice hot shower). We went to a local town known for wood carvings (I made a number of purchases), then a weaver´s shop (I got to try using a spinning wheel to wind yarn into a skein, it´s kind of hard!). In the evening, we heard traditional Andean music which was really cool. Those of you in Great Con, remember Lope de Aguirre The Wrath of God? Pan pipes! Oh yeah. It was pretty cool. We tried to dance to the music and failed in a terribly American way. Today, we went to Otavalo where I got far too much stuff. But it is all amazing and it was great to see so many quality goods made by people I now understand a bit better. I should be off, I need to return to my host family in Quito. I am about ready to return home, to the U.S. I have had a great time here, but it is about time.

M said...

Dear Kay,
I'm sure your last week will go quickly since work on papers and presentations will fill in the time. It was only 7 above here this morning so enjoy your last bit of warmth, although we've read that it is rainy there. We'll be ready to feed you your favorite foods when you get back(almost anything American will do I imagine!) Hugs, Mom

M said...

Dear Kay,
I read this is in the St. Cloud paper today.
"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." (Miriam Beard)
How has this interim trip changed you? Have your ideas of living been affected? Hmm-sounds like a final exam question. Love, M

M said...

Dear Kay,
Tues. Jan. 23 I ordered Great Con books for you after receiving a list from Hilary. I used ISBN numbers to be sure to get the correct editions. Quite a few are being shipped today. It is advised that you get a head start on Dostoevsky's The Brothers Karamazov since it is 700+ pages long. Your week break may not be a total rest!
Love, M